Honouring India's textile legacy

The Indian textile heritage is a collection of rich traditions, culture, and innovation. In 2022, the market size of the Indian textiles and apparel manufacturing industry was around $165 billion, expected to touch $350 billion in 2030, with the new roadmap planned by the Indian government focusing on emerging areas—technical textiles, innovative fashion fabrics, home furnishings, and many others, as per the FICCI-Wazir Advisors report published in October 2024.

In this article, we commemorate the resplendent legacy, traced back to the ages and continues to shape us in the global landscape. 

Older than history

The roots of khadi, for instance, can be traced back to history, as its origin dates to ancient times. It is believed to have existed during the Indus Valley Civilisation around 2800 BC, as referenced in the Rig Veda. Chanakya’s Arthashastra also highlights the use of cotton cloth, which played a critical role in the country’s economy.

In 1288 AD, Marco Polo and other travellers from Venice visited India and wrote about cotton, comparing it to the spider’s web. It continued through the Mughal period as well. Also, cotton was exported to Europe by the French, Portuguese, and Dutch as a superior textile handcrafted from India, prized for its fine quality. Later, in the era of British-ruled India, it became a symbol of self-reliance to revolt against foreign-made goods. 

As a weapon 

Drawing the attention of many Indian patriotic leaders towards the decline of the Indian cottage industry, the ‘Swadeshi movement’ was initiated, promoting only handmade goods where khadi holds the centre stage, and charkha, a pledge for Indians to support their country. The symbol of charkha was also placed on the Indian National Flag in 1919. 

Over centuries, the craft of spinning has been practised in the country, with muslin, silk, and wool becoming synonymous with handcrafted luxury. These textiles are an expression of ‘unity in diversity’. 

From north to south, and east to west, the regional diversity and craftsmanship define the wealth that India possesses. Be it the Banarasi silk from Varanasi, pashmina from Kashmir, Muga silk from Assam, or Kanjeevaram silk from Kancheepuram—they set an elegant example of the rich variety of India and a reminder of the impactful bright spirit of the country.

Ingrained sustainability 

The partnership between sustainability and Indian textiles is timeless. Especially in modern times, when sustainable development is not just a buzzword but a goal to be achieved, Indian textiles cannot be ignored. It impeccably aligns with the sustainable development goals, setting Indian textiles cognizant example today. 

The ancient tradition of crafting fabrics—eco-friendly, leaving minimal impact on the environment, providing employment opportunities, empowering rural development—are deeply intertwined with sustainability, encouraging a circular economy. 

There is a demand globally, promoting exports from India and pushing foreign exchanges. The handloom industry exports fabrics, home furnishings, tapestries and upholsteries, carpets, floor coverings, apparel, shoes, handbags, accessories, and many more. It also contributes 2.3% to the GDP,13% to industrial production, 4% to the country’s exports, and has a 4% share of the global trade in textiles and apparel.

Government initiatives

The Indian government has been actively promoting the revival of Indian-origin goods through its flagship initiative ‘Make in India’, launched in 2014, and has played a critical role in bringing back the traditional textile to life. Continuous efforts have been made to promote traditional fabrics at universal stages to boost global appeal. 

Numerous financial opportunities—subsidies, credit schemes, grants, etc.—have been allocated to the artisans to promote traditional crafts, for example, the Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna, National Handicrafts Development Programme implemented by the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts), Mega Cluster schemes, and others. 

Khadi Village Industries Commission has already been witnessing year-on-year growth. Khadi’s collaboration with designers has revolutionised its image, transforming it from a symbol of nationalism into a modern fashionable fabric to fit into the consumer's lifestyle. 

Not just Khadi but many other handloom fabrics have been used by renowned Indian designers drawing inspired collections and presenting the same at national and international platforms. Designers Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Ritu Kumar, and Rajesh Pratap Singh have blended Khadi’s traditional texture with trendy silhouettes and detail, presenting it with eco-friendly appeal at Paris and London Fashion Week. With this, Khadi stands out as a symbol of sustainable luxury by merging heritage, innovation, and design, thus setting a cultural and global fashion statement.

With geographical indication (GI) tags, many textiles like Banarasi and Kanjeevaram silks have been presented at international runways and fashion houses, considering them luxurious fabrics due to their exquisite craftsmanship, heritage, legacy, time-intensive process, and purity of raw materials. 

The tags are considered a certification mark and further enhance its luxury appeal. The Export Promotion Council of Handicrafts helps promote exports by facilitating buyer-seller meets. There are many initiatives and export-oriented policies like the Handloom Export Promotion Scheme (HEPS), Marketing and Export Promotion Scheme (MEPS), Export Promotion Capital Goods (EPCG) Scheme, and Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS)—providing benefits for exporters to improve its international position. 

Efforts are also made to provide a digital integration platform for better exposure. Yet they continue to face competition from synthetic fabrics and machine-made products. 

As promoted by the Handloom Export Promotion Council, "When the world starts dreaming, our hand starts weaving". 

It is time for our call to action by giving our maximal support to Indian-made textiles and the local artisans and weavers. It is not just about a fabric, it is about keeping our history alive, weaving the story of the nation alive. As we celebrate these textiles, we celebrate the nation—its rich diversity, culture, and capability to blend contemporary and traditional.   

Let the world dream of 'Indian Handloom’!

(Vasundhara Saluja is an Associate Professor at Pearl Academy.)